Starting a 30-day solo backpacking trip through Buenos Aires and Tigre…

1st day – Saturday (14/05/2011)

I arrived in Buenos Aires with just a backpack on my back and super excited about the idea of traveling alone for 30 days. Upon arriving at the Buenos Aires airport, after being stared at by practically everyone because of the size of my backpack, I looked for buses that would take me to the city and ended up taking the Manuel Leon Store.

I loved it! It was cool, with comfortable seats and air conditioning (or heating, in my case) and best of all, it was much cheaper than a taxi. The bus stopped at a kind of bus terminal near my hostel (HI Recoleta Hostel), which was in Recoleta, and from there I took a transfer shared to my hostel. When I arrived there, I found a rather low-spirited place, with very old computers, very different from what I expected from a hostel. Expectations of a first-time backpacker, you know? Anyway... my room had 12 beds in double bunk beds and only ONE bathroom with some shower cubicles and toilets. I put my things in the locker and I left with just what I needed in my backpack.

Before giving the details, here is the map with the attractions I visited in these 5 days:

I was enchanted by the neighborhood of Recoleta…Buildings close together with mixed architecture and always with plants on the balconies or windows. The streets are extremely clean and tree-lined and the autumn weather made the place very pleasant, especially with well-dressed people everywhere.

I walked to the cemetery square where there was a craft fair and a comedy show, with spectators sitting on the grass in complete tranquility. I even tried to watch the show for a while, but I confess that I didn't find it very interesting.

I entered the Nuestra Senora del Pilar Parish, which is very beautiful inside and out, and then I went to Recoleta Cemetery, where I did the tour free that was already happening. I saw Evita's tomb and many others, but the one that really stood out was that of a woman who woke up inside the coffin and tried to get out, but since it was ceramic and heavy, she couldn't and died of asphyxiation. They say that some people heard the noises and later when they went to check, they only found fingernail marks on the ceramic. Horrible, right?

I left the cemetery feeling a little down, of course, and entered the Recoleta Cultural Center to try to relax a little. I didn't understand anything about the exhibition that was going on, with glasses and water inside them...thank goodness it was free.

Then I entered the store MORPH, very cute by the way, with lots of cool decoration stuff and I walked around the mini shopping Buenos Aires Design.

I went back to the hostel, got on the computer to give news to family and friends and ended up meeting two roommates, one from Uruguay and the other from Germany. I took my first shower in a shared bathroom (very hot, at least) and slept with unknown girls for the first time. I survived, guys! 🙂

2nd day – Sunday (15/05/2011)

I woke up, took a shower, had a simple breakfast at the hostel and left with my new Uruguayan friend to catch the train to Tiger, a city less than an hour by train from Buenos Aires. She was already going there because she was going back to Montevideo via Tigre and I wanted to go because of the amusement park, which only opens on weekends. So we walked from the hostel to the Retiro Train Station. I found the station well dark, but at least clean.

There are two trains that leave from BsAs to Tigre, one of which is very tidy (La Costa Train) and another very basic one. Since she was already used to the second one, we went there. It is cheaper than the other one and is also simpler, with very humble people. We sat next to an Argentinean girl who kept making conversation and my Uruguayan friend...it was hard to follow the conversation!

After a 40 minute drive, we arrived at Tiger. What a cute little town! We walked around a bit and went to the Del Delta Markets, Inside Puerto de Frutos. The place is full of mini shops with different types of products, basically handicrafts and all at very affordable prices.

We did some shopping (really small, because it would have to fit in my backpack for 30 days) and then went to Costa Park, which was more crowded than I imagined. We went on the Ferris wheel, which has a really cool view, then on the roller coaster (really cool) and then the idea was to go on the swing, in which the person flies from one side to the other, as if it were a pendulum. When I got there, right at the end of the day, I discovered that I had to have scheduled a time and it was no longer possible to fly that day. Here's a tip!

We left the park and said goodbye, as she had to continue her journey to Montevideo. I continued on to the Fruit Port and I took one boat trip through the Tigre Delta, bought on the spot.

The tour must have lasted 1 hour and we were able to see houses with very diverse architecture on the riverbank, with orange vegetation. The tour was pleasant, although I didn't understand the guide's Spanish. Afterwards I went to the casino, but I could only play for 15 minutes, because the smell of cigarettes/cigars gave me a terrible headache. It was starting to get dark and since I was afraid of wandering around there alone, I took the La Costa Train (the tidy one) back to Buenos Aires, to see if it really was very different. And it is! 🙂 I only saw tourists and the atmosphere is much more pleasant, relaxed. There is a stop at the Miter, where we walk a little until we catch another train from Mitre to Buenos Aires.

Some people stop at the station San Isidro to go shopping, but I didn't want to stop because it was already late and I thought the stores might be closed. I arrived in BsAs around 8pm and walked to the hostel a little scared, I confess, but I didn't have any problems, thank God.

3rd day – Monday (16/05/2011)

After the basic breakfast at the hostel, I went out on my own to explore the city with my little backpack on my back. I took the subway towards the neighborhood of Palermo and got off at the station Plaza Italia. I walked around there and first visited the Botanical garden, which I found quite tidy and empty, with only cats walking around and sleeping.

After there, I tried to go to Zoo, but it was closed (it doesn't open on Mondays!). I kept walking, stopped to have some ice cream with dulce de leche and Patagonian fruits at Jauja Ice Cream Shop and I simply died of happiness with it. The best ice cream of my life…more than recommended.

I thought Palermo a very pleasant neighborhood, very residential, organized and tree-lined. I loved walking around it without rushing…

I entered the Japanese Garden and I was surprised. It is very beautiful, extremely organized, with impeccable vegetation and lakes. It was worth spending some time relaxing and taking photos.

I left there and continued walking through the parks of Palermo (what a delightful neighborhood, I repeat!) and ended up entering the Buenos Aires tourist bus, that has the hop on hop off scheme, you know? It stops at all the tourist attractions in the city and has audio for each of the passengers, with the possibility of choosing the language. The bus pass is for the whole day and costs 90 pesos (if you buy it online). Internet (you can also get a discount!). The cool thing is that passengers can choose their own route, getting on and off wherever they want, and can walk around the city at their leisure in complete safety. If you get off at a tourist spot and don't like it, you can catch the next bus in 15 minutes, without having to waste a lot of time on something you're not interested in. I thought it was great... so great that I got the 2-day promotional pass for 110 pesos. =D

I stayed on the bus and decided to get off only at Mouth (Caminito), since I had walked a bit and was tired. After passing by practically all the tourist attractions sitting on the bus, I arrived at the happiest neighborhood in the city! Colorful little houses, with artisans and handicrafts scattered throughout the streets, full of typical bars and restaurants, with tango dancers in practically all of them.

I sat on the The Yunta of Caminito and I ate a fabulous sandwich, accompanied by a cold Quilmes beer. I watched the dancers perform until I couldn't find it so funny anymore. I went out for a walk around the neighborhood and after some time, I decided to take the bus back, because it was already getting dark and I read in the guides that it's not very safe to walk around Boca at night.

I got off at Florida Street, the famous shopping street in BsAs, where no cars pass. There are many stores and street vendors stretched out in the center of the street and many people walking around, mainly Brazilians. I entered the Pacific Galleries, which is beautiful inside and out, but only has expensive stores... good for just browsing. I went past the El Ateneu bookstore and Abuela Goye's little shop to eat an alfajore recommended by my current boyfriend, who at the time was just a friend. It's worth it... it's better than Havana.

I went back to the hostel and met my German roommate, who was leaving early in the morning. We decided to go have a few beers nearby and found a really cool little bar near the hostel (sorry, I don't remember the name), which was recommended by a random passerby, probably a local resident. I had the typical Argentine alcoholic drink – FERNET WITH COCA COLA– and I almost felt sick because it was so bad… I drank a few beers to get rid of the taste and we went back to the hostel before we got too crazy and missed her flight.

4th day – Tuesday (17/05/2011)

I woke up, had the same breakfast as the other days and walked to the nearest stop for the tourist bus. I got on it and went straight to the MALBA, but it was closed (I would have known that if I had read the guide, but I wanted to do everything on the fly, and that's what happened!).

The way was to walk to the Metallic rose, which is nice during the day, but they say the colors at night give it a special touch. From there, I walked to the Evita Museum, which I found sensational because of the details, films, photos of Evita…it was one of my first museums in life and it certainly left an impression on me.

Then I walked to the Zoo (open this time!) and I lost track of time there, there was so much cool stuff to see. I think I thought it was cool because I couldn't remember the last time I went to a zoo, but nowadays I wouldn't pay to see animals in captivity.

I took the tourist bus right there and got off at Colon Theater, but since the guided tour was only leaving in a few hours, I didn't think it would be worth the wait.

I walked to the Tortoni Coffee, highly recommended in the guides and very traditional. I thought it was cool, but very expensive. I had a water that cost R$$5, just to enjoy its beauty. Traveling without money is like that.

I walked to the Plaza de Mayo and then until the Pink House and BsAs Metropolitan Cathedral. I found the square a bit strange, with a heavy atmosphere, you know, so I thought it best not to be fooling around there.

I went back to the hostel as I had booked a tour to the tango house “Taste of Tango“, with a class, dinner and a show. I loved everything...the class was fun, even though I danced with a Turkish guy I had just met, the dinner was absolutely divine and the show was really cool, very sensual. They dropped me back at the hostel and I slept really well. I want to go back one day with someone! <3 (update: I'm back and it really is much better to dance with your partner).

 5th day – Wednesday (18/05/2011)

Last day in Buenos Aires…how quickly it went by! 🙁

I took a shower, had the same coffee as always and did the checkout from the hostel, leaving the backpack in a room with the other guests' suitcases. The idea was to walk around the city all day and at the end of the day stop by the hostel to pick up the backpack and head to the bus station, where I would buy the ticket to Cordoba. I didn't even think about walking around the city with 18 kilos on my back, right...

I took the tourist bus again (I had the right to ride it for 48 hours from the time of purchase and not just for two days, otherwise I wouldn't be able to ride it anymore today) and got off at the station MALBA, which was open this time! Several people recommended it and I can only say this: So many crazy things! I spent about 15 minutes there and left feeling relieved… I can’t understand modern art. It’s no use. I don’t understand white paintings with a yellow dot in the middle. The museum is beautiful, but I didn’t like the exhibition, you know?

After that I went for a walk in a shopping that I had nearby, which had a Zara in it, with very good prices. I took the opportunity to buy sweatpants, as they would be more comfortable for walking around the cities all day than the jeans I brought.

I walked to the Rose Garden and I spent a lot of time walking around there. There was a lake nearby with lots of ducks and other birds. I thought it was cool to enjoy it while I had a snack. I took the opportunity to rent a bike nearby and went in search of the store. Dry recommended by a friend, to buy galoshes and rain gear. I found the store, but the items were very expensive, so I ended up just visiting. I had a snack nearby to gain energy and then cycled again to the place where I would drop off the bike.

I handed over the bike at the end of the day and I went back to Recoleta by taxi, because I couldn't stand walking anymore. I got off near the cemetery and took the opportunity to have some dulce de leche ice cream at the ice cream shop Freddo. Good too, but Jauja's ice cream was better. 🙂

I passed by Alvear Palace Hotel and I had to go into the main lobby just to see if it was really all they said it was. It really is beautiful inside!

I walked along Av Callao, the main avenue in Recoleta, to get some money and enjoy the atmosphere of Recoleta for the last time (at least on this trip). I went back to the hostel, grabbed my backpack and went straight to the bus station. There I bought the ticket to Cordoba, whose journey took about 9 hours. I took the opportunity to sleep on the bus and thus saved a day's pay! 🙂

Want to know everything about my 30-day trip through Argentina and Chile? Just click on the links below. links below:

• ARGENTINA – Buenos Aires and Tigre
• ARGENTINA – Córdoba, Alta Gracia, Villa Carlos Paz and Villa General Belgrano
• ARGENTINA – Mendoza, Uspallata and Puente del Inca
• ARGENTINA – Neuquén and San Martin de los Andes
• ARGENTINA – Bariloche
• CHILE – Puerto Montt and Puerto Varas
• CHILE – Pucon
• CHILE – Cálama and San Pedro de Atacama
• CHILE – Santiago, Vina del Mar and Valparaíso