Main places visited on the Alentejo Coast: Vila Nova de Milfontes, Zambujeira do Mar, Cabo Sardão, Porto Covo, São Torpes and Almograve.
Day 1 – Wednesday (12/08/2020)
We had a very complete breakfast at our hotel in Luz Beach, the LuzMar Villas, and we took advantage of the rest of the morning to play with the little one around the hotel and pack our bags (Celo and I, respectively lol). We did the checkout close to the deadline and we drove for almost 2 hours until New Town of Milfontes, in Alentejo, our second base on this trip 9 days along the Costa Vicentina.
We passed through the city of Alzejur, which despite not having beaches seems to be quite interesting with its castle at the top and well-divided Moorish and Catholic neighborhoods. As Paddy was sleeping and the city was quite crowded, we ended up not stopping to visit, continuing our journey to VNM, but I would like to return calmly one day.
Lunch at VNM
As soon as we crossed the Mira River bridge, we were enchanted by the beauty of the place, even with the cloudy weather. We continued on to the town and went straight to look for a restaurant for lunch, but it was difficult to find an open place with tables available without reservations. The only one that still had space was the hotel restaurant. HS Milfontes and which we later discovered worked in a scheme all you can eat for less than 15 euros.
They serve everything, but nothing is impressive, you know? We ate pizzas, pastas, barbecue meats, soup and even Chinese food, all quickly and conveniently because the restaurant closed at 3pm and we had just under an hour to eat. It was stressful, but we were glad we managed... Can you imagine not finding anywhere open?
Our hotel in VNM
We walked around the streets of this super cute village for a bit and then drove to look for our hotel, the Boavista Farm (Rating 9.0). It is a little far from the city center, but it has a very pleasant green area, with some birds and cats walking around, 2 swimming pools protected by fences and a couple of gentlemen as owners who are very friendly. We left our things in the room, rested a little and then took a shower to go to dinner.
Dinner at VNM
When we arrived at the village, we decided to stop at Blue Bar to have a Guinness and eat a burger. It was a good idea to break the routine of typical Portuguese restaurants, you know? We sat at a table outside and Paddy played running around in the little square in front. We started off on the right foot in VNM. <3
Day 2 – Thursday (08/13/2020)
Furnas Beach
We had a very tasty breakfast at the hotel at a table outside, which was very pleasant. We then went out to see the most famous beach in the region, Furnas Beach, which is highly recommended for those with children as it has calm and warmer waters, as it is where the Mira River meets the Atlantic.
It was a bit windy and we saw some families using wind protectors for their tents (we only find this here in Portugal lol), but we stayed there in the middle of the wind. We didn't take a tent this time, so we stayed with our beach towel on the sand enjoying the blue water, the white sand and the view of the cute Vila Nova de Milfontes.
Lunch at VNM
When we started to feel hungry, we went to eat at the restaurant on the beach itself, Oasis, which had a good review and available seating. We ended up sitting inside because of the wind, but I imagine sitting outside on a nice day must be spectacular because of the view. We ordered an octopus cataplana which was very good!
Zambujeira do Mar and Cape Sardão
Then we took the car and drove to the famous beach of Zambujeira do Mar, which is half an hour away heading south. Since Paddy was exhausted and had a full belly, it was perfect because he could take a nap in the car and we were able to rest as well, stopping at a few places along the way, one of them being Cape Sardao. Beautiful by the way, look:
In Zambujeira, we managed to park the car in a busy parking lot right in front of the beach and we were on the right side of the beach, with some really nice little pools. I also thought the village of Zambujeira was really cute. I recommend a visit!
Dinner at VNM
At the end of the day, we returned to the hotel to shower and went to dinner at a place recommended by our guide and friends as well, the 18 and pikes. It's a little bistro with light and quick dishes, tables outside overlooking the square and it's always full. A sign of good food, right? Yes! It was worth it.
Day 3 – Friday (08/14/2020)
Franquia Beach
Another full breakfast and off to the beach! We started by going to a beach in VNM, Franquia Beach, which is very calm because it is a beach on the Mira River. It was the coldest water of the entire trip (ouch!), but it was possible to take a quick dip and play a lot in the sand.
Lunch at VNM
We didn't have much free time because we had booked the restaurant Ritual for an early lunch, so we left the beach and walked there. Look at this cute village:
The restaurant had been recommended by friends and our guides, so we were super excited to go there. The place is lovely! Since we booked an appointment early, it was quite empty and we were very well attended to. We ordered several slaps (small portions of food) and my favorite was the ceviche. Even Paddy liked it!
Porto Covo
We walked to the car that was parked near Praia da Franquia and drove strategically until Porto Covo, because we wanted Paddy to take a nap after lunch. Everyone had time to rest and we even stopped to enjoy the view of the beaches in the area, but we didn't stop at any of them to swim. I confess that I felt like going into the Buizinhos Beach (photo below), but as I was very excited about the warm sea water of Sao Torpes Beach, we headed straight there.
The famous hot water beach
On the way to Saint Torpes we can already see the Sines Thermoelectric Power Station, the main person responsible for the “phenomenon” of warm sea water in Portugal. How sad, right? That’s the only way to have hot water here…lol. Just thinking that my Bahia has that delicious water without needing any of that…I miss it! But getting back to it…the thermoelectric plant is horrible and of course makes the region look uglier, but it was wonderful to put my feet in the hot water. I almost cried with emotion!
We parked the car very close to the rocks, because we knew that the hot water from the plant came out of there, and we spent a good while enjoying the place. Patrick went in and out of the water happily, like a pig in a poop bag, while Celo and I stayed in the water in ecstasy. We only left there because the wind started to pick up. punk and we were worried about Paddy, but it was worth it! We read in several places that the water is clean and safe for swimming, but I confess that I was a little shocked by the black particles in the water… May God protect us!
Dinner in Vila Nova de Milfontes
We left feeling refreshed after this warm sea bath and went back to the hotel to take a shower and go out for dinner. We chose Pizza La Sicilienne, highly recommended by friends, to take a break from Portuguese food and as the place only sells pizza for takeaway, we ended up sitting at some improvised tables outside and having dinner there. The pizzas were very good, but the atmosphere was nothing special.
Day 4 - Saturday (08/15/2020)
Almograve Beach
After a delicious breakfast, we set off to explore the Almograve Beach. What a spectacular place! We already knew it was a beach with a lot of waves, but we stayed on the right side where there are rocks and it was difficult to dive.
Lunch in Almograve
We left there at lunchtime and went looking for seafood restaurants, but they were all full. We ended up going to the only restaurant that had a table available, Blue Sea, which to our surprise was NEPALESE! That's right... Why not take a chance, right? Look, the atmosphere is very 90s, the waiter was friendly but a little confused, but let's get to the important part: the food was GOOD! We ordered several things recommended by the waiter and we only didn't like one starter there, whose name I no longer remember, so the balance was quite positive.
Furnas Beach
We left satisfied and drove back to Furnas Beach, but this time we stayed by the sea, with more waves. We caught the beginning of a beautiful sunset. <3
Dinner in Vila Nova de Milfontes
We went back to the hotel to get ready and went to dinner again at 18 and Pikes, as we were not very hungry after the giga Nepalese lunch. It's a nice little place to end the night...
Day 5 – Sunday (08/16/2020)
Malhão Beach
Last breakfast at the hotel… oh how sad it is to go back home, right? Sadness and happiness at the same time, I don’t know how to explain it well. We packed our things, did the checkout and we went to see the last beach on our list, Malhão Beach. We didn't stop there to swim, but we strolled along the walkways with spectacular views. Take a look:
Our favorite restaurant
After there we went to the Tasca do Celso Restaurant, as we had made a reservation on Thursday for the only available time slot of the week, Sunday. It is a very busy place from what we could see, but the service, atmosphere and food were impeccable. We ordered a divine grilled fish that ended the trip with a flourish. We went straight back to our little house in Cascais. <3
This post is part of a 9-day trip through the Algarve and Alentejo. Read about the entire trip in links below:
- 9 days driving along the Costa Vicentina (Algarve and Alentejo)
- Setubal Ferryboat until Troy
- Troia, Comporta and the Carrasqueira Stilt Wharf
- Beaches of Luz, Burgau and Salema (Algarve)
- Sagres, Cape St. Vincent and Martinhal (Algarve)
- A day at Lagos Zoo
- 1 day exploring the beaches of Amado and Bordeira (Algarve)
- 5 days on the Alentejo Coast (Vila Nova de Milfontes, Zambujeira do Mar, etc.)
