We were planning to travel with the children on the Brazilian holiday of 15/11 (Friday) to Monchique, but when we read the news about the cold snap in the Algarve and the sudden snow in Serra da Estrela, we went to Booking and cancelled our hotel.
We started looking for accommodation in the mountains, packing our bags with warm clothes and researching what to do there, and we left on Friday after lunch with the little ones excited because they were going to see snow!
Our Hosting
We chose the Quinta Costa da Estrela (rated 9.4 on Booking) in Gouveia to be our little corner for the weekend. We read on the Vagamundos website that Seia, Gouveia and Covilhã were good bases for exploring the Serra, and we ended up choosing this farm in Gouveia just because of the cost-benefit (Booking rating, price, space…)
We were very well received by Cristina, a Portuguese/American woman who has been taking care of the beautiful house for a few years and who prepared breakfast for us on both days we were there. The Quinta is right in the center of Gouveia and has been completely remodeled. We really enjoyed having two spacious bedrooms and letting the children run free in the garden.
What we visited
FRIDAY
Sao Giao Cheese Factory
On Friday, we arrived in Seia around 4pm and went to visit a family cheese factory to see how the famous Serra da Estrela Cheese was done. We ended up calling some cheese shops in the middle of the road and Saint Giao The owner welcomed us without any formalities or appointments. The factory is small, with about 300 sheep, but it seems efficient. We met the employees and the rooms where the different manufacturing processes are carried out. However, the smell was quite strong inside, so the children wanted to leave right away. We stayed outside and watched the sheep, and it was really cool to see the shepherd whistling and them obeying and entering the pen. It was a simple and interesting experience, and we also left with a delicious cheese worth 12 euros.
Bread Museum
After the cheese shop, we went to Bread Museum, which tells the story of this food in Portugal and around the world, and has a special space for children to learn how we can make it. I found the space to be very cute, especially the more playful part, and at the end of the tour, the children literally got their hands dirty. We paid 23 euros for the 4 of us and at the end we went to the little shop to buy some local bread and stave off our hunger. Traveling also has to be about culture!
Dinner in Gouveia
We went to our accommodation to check in and then went out for dinner nearby, at restaurant “The Garden”. Very simple place, tasty and fast food, exactly what we needed to end the day.
SATURDAY
Elderberry
We had our coffee without rushing and went to explore Serra da Estrela by car. Our first stop was at highest village in the country (1200m), Sabugueiro. We parked the car in the town center, walked a little through the alleys, drank water from the fountain and at the end we stopped at a store/cafe to buy my magnet and some snacks for the road. The cheeses and sausages were a hit with everyone!
Lagoa Comprida Dam
We continued on the road and then stopped at Marques da Silva Dam, a hydraulic structure designed to supply water and produce energy. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, it was designed by engineer Manuel Marques da Silva, an important name in Portuguese engineering, and is fed by the Alva River. It was very cold and windy when we arrived and the water was even coming out of the dam, but it was really cool to see it up close and to explain it to the children too. Of course we threw pebbles in there, right? All for their joy.
Ametade Cove
We left the dam and went straight to the Ametade Cove, the place I most wanted to visit on the entire trip. We got caught in a bizarre fog on the road and I confess that I felt discouraged at the time, but luckily for us, we arrived at this tourist spot in Serra da Estrela and the place was simply incredible. We parked the car very close to the entrance and walked less than 2 minutes to a forest worthy of a fairy tale. I fell in love with the autumn colors, the river in the middle of the trees, the wooden bridge, the tables picnic and my happy puppies playing with rocks, leaves and the river water. We spent a long time there enjoying the scenery, taking photos, breathing in the fresh air and just enjoying the moment. It was truly magical and I recommend it to everyone!
Torre – snow on top of Serra da Estrela
We left Covão super happy and went to Torre, the highest point in Serra da Estrela, where we had the best chance of finding snow. We saw some snow on the side of the road and were excited about the possibility of playing up there, but when we got to the parking lot, it was a disappointment. There was only 2 or 3 small piles of snow. The rest had already melted because of the rain that fell on Thursday – I found out about this later. Even so, we played a lot with the little snow that there was and when we got tired of being in the cold, we went into the shopping center and drank hot chocolate to warm up. I expected more from the place, after all, it is the place in Portugal to see snow, but it is basically a big parking lot with a shopping center in the middle with very simple stores that sell winter clothes, toys, sausages, cheeses and some drinks. Don't expect much…
Our Lady of the Good Star
We stopped on the road to pray and take pictures of Our Lady of the Good Star, carved into a block of granite on the mountainside. It was created in 1946 by the sculptor Antonio Duarte, as a tribute to the shepherds of the region, representing Mary with the Baby Jesus in her arms, symbolizing protection and care for those who live and work in the mountains. Look how beautiful:
Hell's Well Waterfall
We then went to see the Hell's Well Waterfall which was one of the best surprises of the trip and I would say it is a MUST SEE in Serra da Estrela, as well as Covão Da Ametade. This waterfall is right next to the road, next to a parking lot and there is an irregular path with stone steps that the whole family can enjoy and get very close to the waterfall. It was totally worth it! Afterwards, we went to some viewpoints nearby and enjoyed the view of the mountains. You can do longer trails around the waterfall, but we were starting to get hungry and thought it would be better to head to a restaurant.
Dinner in Folgosinho
We had read excellent reviews of the Albertino Restaurant, in the village of Folgosinho, and we decided to go there for dinner. We took the road through Manteigas, which is spectacular by the way, and arrived at the village shortly after 6 pm. Unfortunately for us, the place was closed and would only open at 7 pm, even though Google Maps said it was open. I called the number provided and they confirmed that we could enter at 7 pm now with a reservation. We spent some time playing ball and pretending and at 7 pm we went in for lunch and dinner.
The restaurant is the village’s hotspot. Everyone we saw walking through the alleys went in. It looks small from the outside, but it actually has several floors and lots of tables. We thought the service was very good and asked the waiter for a recommendation, which was a menu for 22 euros per adult/11 euros per child (Juju didn’t pay) with 5 meat dishes, including veal, suckling pig, pork, goat and rabbit, with their respective sides. It was a great meal and the experience was interesting, but I myself didn’t fall in love with the dishes. I found them a bit heavy and with very strong seasonings, but Celo loved it and ate a lot!
SUNDAY
We had breakfast, checked out, put our bags in the car and went for a walk around the city of Gouveia. We went into the City Hall, the Church of São Pedro and the Church of Misericórdia and then let the children play in the playground right next to the City Hall. A peaceful morning for everyone.
Loriga
We then drove about 40 minutes to Loriga, the village known as “Portuguese Switzerland”. We stopped first at Loriga River Beach and we spent hours there with the children playing leaf races in the water. The landscape is beautiful and the space must be excellent during the hottest days with the several pools with different depths.
We left there and went to have lunch at Corner of the Mountains, because the most recommended restaurant, O Vicente, was full. We thought the food, the atmosphere and the service were good, but they didn't change our lives.
We then took the road to Cascais and arrived home at the end of the day happy with another trip around Portugal as a family.
When will be the next one? 🙂
Other trips through Central Portugal
Mira de Aire Caves: the largest and most important in Portugal
2 days in Cerdeira, Talasnal and Lousã in the Lousã Mountains
4 days in the Bussaco Forest, Coimbra, Luso and Penacova
2 days in Caldas da Rainha, Foz do Arelho and S. Martinho do Porto
